Mt. Ritter- SE Face & Couloir

Mount Ritter is a gorgeous peak that dominates the northern skyline when one is skiing at Mammoth Mountain. That is where I first had the inkling to eventually ski this beast.

Below is my personal journal entry from my recent trip to the Ritter Range to ski Mt. Ritter’s SE face and couloir.

We started the day off this morning at roughly 6 o'clock at the Mammoth Mountain base area. Parking here was pretty straight forward. We left our cars at the Mammoth Inn and left a note just to be safe. From there the first section is pretty self explanatory. We took a groomed road to the Minaret Summit and found a beautiful view of the Minarets, Ritter and Banner.

Left: Moose and I on the road to Minaret Summit, Right: Our first view of the Minarets, Ritter and Banner!

Moving our way on this road for about 4 1/2 miles was awesome, really light and easy-going with the help with some snowmobile tracks and skin wax for a great glide. Once at Agnew Meadows, we took the path of least resistance down to Olaine lake and just further beyond that North using the middle fork of the San Joaquin river as a left hand rail. From here we crossed the river and began to climb up towards Shadow Lake.

As we got to the mouth of Shadow Lake the intensity grew in direct correlation with the exposure: south facing slopes rapidly warming above us while we traversed above large cliffs and the lake’s runoff to the river below. Once around the crux of the day we got onto the lake for a rest and some water. The sounds of rockfall as we move between Shadow and Ediza were a sobering reminder of how serious this terrain is.

Left: Moose ascending towards Shadow Lake with Mammoth Mountain in the background

After a gorgeous final push up into lake Ediza, we crested onto an east side knoll to find a perfect camp spot. Here we took a rest, ate some snacks and enjoyed the views that we worked so hard for.

Below: Our campsite on the east side of Lake Ediza

The terrain between Ediza and Shadow Lake is some of the more complicated and frustrating terrain to move around in. Creeks, streams, and marshland are all common themes when moving through this zone. I definitely recommend only moving through this terrain on large snow years in the spring or during the true winter season.

Solitude found here is hard to find around our mountains in Tahoe. Local mountains have become more crowded and tracks have become a familiar sight. It feels good to be in an untouched wilderness all alone.

With our alarm set and our bellies full, we eagerly await the sun to fall so we can begin a restful night ahead.

Below: A selfie for Mom while waiting for nightfall

After having trouble getting to sleep, our alarms woke us up at around 2:15. Hastily making our way out of our tents to cold boots but with excited smiles, we skied down from our camp perch to Lake Ediza. We crossed the lake and started route finding to the beginning of the steep snow climb. Once out of the trees after around a thousand vertical feet up, we found our steepest pitch on the lower section of the mountain. Front pointing & French technique on repeat , staggering your ice axes into the snow; slowly working our way up after about an hour or so of this we reach the first main col. Here is when we really began to move in rhythm, alternating between cramponing techniques and sharing good conversation along the way.

Below: Moose finding the flow above our steepest section of the day

After another hour or so, we made it to the base of our main ski descent. From here I began on the couloir solo as Moose waited down below resting. Quite a fun and engaging chute to climb that is for sure. I was met with rotten snow but rather good climbing conditions all around. This seemingly never ending chute was my main crux for the day. Having to count out my steps; going to 50 then 100 before breaking gave me a solid plan for this section.

Left: Looking back at my steps up the bottom of the couloir

Alas, atop of the couloir and nearly eye level with the Minarets. This was a joyous moment, as I had felt like I had truly made some progress on this mountain. After a short break of water and sour candy, I crested along the phenomenal summit ridge. I slowly shuffle my feet and excitement builds, but I know I need to keep a calm mind to not fall down the north east side. Finally on top of Ritter. I’ve been looking at this mountain for years.

Top Left: West Face of Banner looking promising for another adventure, Top Right: Summit Selfie, Bottom Left: Looking south to the Minarets from the summit, Bottom Right: The summit ridge becoming more precarious

Ritter is a special mountain to me. A pinnacle that dominates the skyline when in mammoth lakes: a perfect triangular peak with grandeur that inspires adventure. Excited to have finally skied off the top of this peak!

Mount Ritter in perfect spring conditions