Trials and Tribulations- Denali 2025
- AlexMitchko
- Mar 4
- 4 min read
Back in the range for a second time. This time with a team. Luke Bracco, Chris Hopkins, Rob Horch and I landed at Kahiltna International Airport.
After a flew laborious days up to 14k camp we quickly settled into camp life.
We had just escaped a major storm cell pummeling the lower mountain and took that time to acclimatize as teams slowly trickled into camp
We made the most of our days in camp. We plotted a huge area of land, a modern-day 40 acres, at 14k camp & created camp games like “closest to the pin” with bamboo wands.
The guys also got acclimated to the semi-nauseating swirl of strategy conversation.
“What do you think about tomorrow? Or Sunday?” “Did you bring over boots?” “What food did you bring?” “You guys gonna go for it tomorrow?”
These conversations rarely provide anything more than a sounding board to talk through nerves.
I’ve found having outside influence like other climbing parties around you in big mountains can make or break your mindset.
I was fortunate enough to be around incredible athletes and alpinists during my first visit that I now know what information to digest and what to let go.
We finally had our attempt at the summit after waiting around for nearly a week.
The morning started great, moving quickly in the cold shade. Our timing was perfect to get into the sun at the beginning of the fixed lines.
Arriving on the West Buttress for Luke and Chops first time was spectacular, with clear views for hundreds of miles.
Before arriving at 17k we took a break to grab some water and food. At this moment we discovered we somehow got a small bit of gas into our waters; all three of us had contaminated water. Alas, we continued on as we felt good and were still making great progress.
The slog begins. 17 camp to Denali pass is where I start to slow quite a bit. It was sunny but relentlessly cold.
At Denali pass we take a long break that seems to go by in 90 seconds. Moving up towards Archdeadon's tower thoughts of doubt start to creep out of our heads and through our mouths.
“Should we keep going” we asked each other nonstop above 18k feet.
At the football field, as a team I decided to stay at 19,750’ since I was moving so slowly. The lack of water and cold really took it out of me.
Disappointed and overjoyed at the same time. Sitting on the final slope below the summit allowed me to take in view I never got in my hypoxic state in 2023.
The boys summit after what feels like an eternity for me and we start moving downhill.
Finding the strength to make good turns at altitude is one of the most difficult and satisfying feelings you can have as a backcountry skier.
Firm conditions pushed us away from any stout descent, so we retraced our steps back to 17k camp. Firm wind board mixed with pockets of boot top pow made the autobahn traverse quite fun.
Arriving at 17k camp we were greeted by some friends with hot water that gave us all life for the final 3k descent. We were toying with the idea of belaying / lowering into rescue gully but ultimately just went for it.
The conditions were okay, but we were all so tired. I got a few turns in the constriction but exhaustion was taking over.
Stopping below the crux and seeing the sun set of over the Kahlitna was one of the most beautiful sights I've ever witnessed.
I remember having a similar feeling while descending in 2023.
We made powder wiggles back to camp and were met with hot water, snacks, and stoke from Rob.
As celebrations continued, we enjoyed all of our food as we knew we’d be headed off the mountain the next day.
To no surprise, all of the friends we made at 14k camp also had the same idea, so we had a potluck for the ages.
Bacon, cheese, bagels, pasta, and deep fried oreos: a proper mountain feast.
This is what Denali trips are all about. Meeting others, pushing yourself, and making memories.
After our feast, we skiied all the way down to the airstrip the next day. With our sleds loaded on our backs and chests we passed all the teams who started before us that day.
With a nice stroke of luck and a fast pace from Luke, we managed to get on the final plane back to Talkeetna that afternoon.
Just like that we were back in the plane headed home. With each passing year, I appreciate these trips more and more. Nothing will ever replace the time spent in wild places with great people. Here's to all the folks I've spent time with in the mountains.
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